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Post by tomlory on Jul 1, 2022 3:39:49 GMT
One of my recent posts may have been prophetic.
My G27 wheel malfunctioned during a race last night, intermittently failed to shift up and down with the paddles, stuck in 2nd gear on the first lap at Sebring and subsequently 2-5 times per lap until another character building race.
I restarted everything and tested to find the same problem.
Logitech Profiler reports paddle shifters reliably, odd additional symptom was that all the LEDS on the steering wheel were lit up.
I'm going try re-installing the driver if I can find it. If that fails, the last try I guess will be to reinstall rF2 and see if somehow it's an iRacing problem.
$300 for a new G29 sounds fine but $300 off a Fanatec DD setup (by not buying another Logitech) sounds better, if only their equipment was readily available.
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Post by tomlory on Jul 1, 2022 13:21:10 GMT
Well, rF2 didn't even acknowledge the paddle shifters. Initially, rf2 didn't recognize the wheel or any controls but that was a Steam setting problem: www.youtube.com/watch?v=3xCgzk8aikgI tried the BMW M4 GT4 in iRacing bc it doesn't need Autoclutch to shift like we're used to but it had the same problem, intermittent shifting, actually stuck in gear before I made it to T2 @ Sebring. I browsed Fanatec USA's site. Everything that I would want seems to be available except for the CSL DD base. |
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Post by tomlory on Jul 2, 2022 17:18:37 GMT
My G27 is unusable with the paddle shifters now. I reinstalled the driver and tested with iRacing multiple cars and multiple tracks [well, one thing that I didn't do was delete the controller or whatever it's called in iRacing file; I'll try that, too] and same problem, totally unreliable shifting. Its new disability will move me to a direct drive wheel sooner than I planned or wanted but I can live with that, money well spent on an activity that I enjoy and spend a great deal of time with. I was hoping to see new DD offerings from Thrustmaster (announced as coming in 2022) and Logitech (my own fantasy based on making good business sense for them) before I made the change but as things stand, the only choice is the Fanatec CSL DD so my decision making comes down to pedals. I figured that worst case I could take the steering wheel off the G27 base and bolt it to the side of my rig to drive the pedals and shifter but KJ pointed out the Leo Bodner cable which converts the pedal flat parallel pin (I don't what its designation is) plug to a USB so I can ditch the G27 wheel base. Leo Bodner cable here: www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=187Ricmotech has a load cell kit for the Logi pedals: www.ricmotech.com/load-cell-upgrade-kit-logitech-pedalsWith the Logitech pedals, I have my pedals as [brake] [clutch] [throttle] as I left foot brake and with the brake in the normal middle position, I get discomfort in my left hip. The better Fanatec pedal set (Clubsport V3) evidently have no nice way to re arrange the pedals. Maybe I could get away with shifting the brake and clutch as far left as possible and the throttle as far right as possible but that's an expensive MAYBE. Heel and toe with a sim would require a life-like brake pedal and is never needed anyway, left foot on the brake and right foot blipping the throttle is the way to go. Fanatec Clubsport V3: fanatec.com/us-en/pedals/clubsport-pedals-v3The more entry level Fanatec pedals but with a load cell are the "CSL LC". They are like the Logitech pedals in that they can be removed from the base and mounted any which way I want, with simple plug-in cables for each one. Annoyingly, the standard pedal faces are a cheap plastic step down from the Logi pedals. That can be remedied with the optional aluminum faces. A bigger problem could be the brake pedal spring which reportedly makes for short travel and is very stiff but that complaint is an internet pundit's complaint; a brake pedal should be short travel and stiff and I believe that a closed cell elastomer would work progressively like an air spring, which seems to be exactly what we'd want for a simulated brake pedal. Fanatec CSL LC: fanatec.com/us-en/pedals/csl-pedals-lcThrustmaster has a nice pedal set (T-LCM) that I think has higher resolution (for whatever that's worth) than the Clubsport V3s and maybe a happier place for my heels but same thing as the Clubsport V3s as far as freedom of positioning and less lateral adjustment. Thrustmaster T-LCM: www.thrustmaster.com/en-us/products/t-lcm-pedals/ |
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Post by tomlory on Jul 11, 2022 2:58:44 GMT
I expect to limp along with my Logitech G27 and modified H-shifter till around Christmas 2022.
The Fanatec CSL DD has issues with its plastic quick release and the optional, much better Clubsport QR1, which is the $100 fix, is supposed to be replaced with a new, better, QR that was announced over a year ago. Another reason to wait is the Black Friday Sale which sounds like the only opportunity to buy new Fanatec equipment at a discount.
If not for the CSL DD, I might have ordered a Thrustmaster TS-XW or TS-PC with the Sparco Rally Wheel but at this point nothing other than a DD wheel makes sense.
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Post by tomlory on Jul 21, 2022 7:43:59 GMT
Down to two functional Logi pedals, broke the shaft on the brake pedal potentiometer prying the retainer off it. I should have removed the entire pedal set assembly from my rig then just the brake pedal assembly to clean the pot but this should have been faster. Instead, it took longer to move the clutch pedal assembly to the former brake pedal assembly. While I was at it, I completely eliminate the plastic base with each pedal assembly bolted directly to the floor of my rig.
Perfect for GT4 BMW M4 (which reportedly has no clutch pedal in RL) and none of the series that I run have standing starts so I can soldier on without a clutch.
Fwiw, Fanatec DD2 today advanced to available now from pre-order with a mid-September fulfillment date so hopefully that means CSL DDs will be available sooner than it seemed.
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